GenII K8 owners need a pic please

[Tybalt]

I m in a debate now please:rofl: can anyone take a pic of the new GenII K8 left handle bar with all switches in it, turn signals, high beam etc........ just a very good clear pic please:not worthy: i will be very grateful-Duane EXTREME CLOSEUP, I am more interested in the switches then the bar!!!!!!!!

[Midlife III]

I borrowed this pic from another thread on Heli install. Will this work?

[Tybalt]

I borrowed this pic from another thread on Heli install. Will this work?
Thank-you sir, my question is this/, GenI's had a choke/idle lever on the switch housing, now i see on the GenII it does not? so the red button is ???? hazard/warning lights? why does the genII not have a idle/choke/fast idle lever like the GenI?:umm: like when you 1st warmed up or started the busa to get up to temperature? has this been replaced in the GenII?

[Midlife III]

I would say because it is fuel injected. I know my Harley does not have one either and it is fuel injected.. I hope this helps..

[Midlife III]

Here are my two fuel injected motorcycles. Midlife II and Midlife III.

[Tybalt]

I would say because it is fuel injected. I know my Harley does not have one either and it is fuel injected.. I hope this helps..

ok, this is where i am confused:wacko: the genI Hayabusas were fuel injected and they had choke/fast idle lever/switch???????? on the left handle bar switch housing?:head meets wall::head meets wall::head meets wall:

[Tybalt]

ok, this is where i am confused:wacko: the genI Hayabusas were fuel injected and they had choke/fast idle lever/switch???????? on the left handle bar switch housing?:head meets wall::head meets wall::head meets wall: So what happened with the K8's?:confused:

[TimJF]

Very good questions!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ihPtRDRWebI

[Skomansteve]

ok, this is where i am confused:wacko: the genI Hayabusas were fuel injected and they had choke/fast idle lever/switch???????? on the left handle bar switch housing?:head meets wall::head meets wall::head meets wall:

All the fast idle lever did was turn the throttle butterflies manually - now on the K8 it is managed electronically and adjusted automatically..........

[BUSGO]

On the GEN 1 busa it was VERY IMPORTANT to warm the bike up by running it at about 2000rpm for a short while. This is because it did not have a good cam chain adjuster and was only lubricated after a recall on the 1st model.

By running the bike at or above 2000 revs it provided enough oil in the circulation to ride away without causing any damage.

On the GEN II busa, as Skomansteve has pointed out, the new cam chain is fully lubricated and the need for an extended warm up is no longer necessary because the ECU controls the idle speed.

If you are riding a GEN II busa, you will notice that after starting the engine from cold there is a slight CLICK noise from the motor. This is the Cam chain adjuster setting itself in the correct position under oil pressure.

[Tybalt]

WOW! I learned somethng new today:not worthy:
:cheers: to all of you and thank-you Tim for taking the time to post a video of your K8:thumbs up: very cool


*P.S I lost the debate!:rofl: I thought there was a fast idle on the new GenII Hayabusas:wacko:

Oh wait! Does the busa still rev high over idle speed to warm up the busa, then comes back down to idle speed when warmed up? I can still win here guys:banana:

at any point during start up will the bike rev higher by itself to warm up, then @ operating temperature, slow down rpms back to idle speed say @ 1200-1500rpms?-Duane

[99_lightning]

they are harder to start cold and run like crap for the first minute while at idle. my 06 started like a dream no matter if 80 or 20 degrees outside. are anyof you feeling this coming from gen1 to gen2?

[Amblyopic]

they are harder to start cold and run like crap for the first minute while at idle. my 06 started like a dream no matter if 80 or 20 degrees outside. are anyof you feeling this coming from gen1 to gen2?

Yeah mine seemed to have a bit of a rough time when it was coming out cold... but give it a moment or two and she was purrin' like normal.

[TimJF]

Haha yeah at first it seems too slow, then before long it compensates for the cold start, then a few minutes later it idles "normal".

I'll snap a vid of the warmup sequence tomorrow morning (about 12 hours from this post).

[Quasar]

On the GEN 1 busa it was VERY IMPORTANT to warm the bike up by running it at about 2000rpm for a short while. This is because it did not have a good cam chain adjuster and was only lubricated after a recall on the 1st model.

By running the bike at or above 2000 revs it provided enough oil in the circulation to ride away without causing any damage.

On the GEN II busa, as Skomansteve has pointed out, the new cam chain is fully lubricated and the need for an extended warm up is no longer necessary because the ECU controls the idle speed.

If you are riding a GEN II busa, you will notice that after starting the engine from cold there is a slight CLICK noise from the motor. This is the Cam chain adjuster setting itself in the correct position under oil pressure.

It is not my intent to slander anyone, so name calling is employed here, but you are providing misinofrmation about Gen 1 CCT units.

Gen 1 CCT's get plenty of oil and that has never been their issue. Likewise, not all Gen 1 Hayabusas had a CCT issue. It was only the 99 and 00 Hayabusas that had CCT issues, but it WASN'T an oil related issue. It was a very poor mechanical design and it allowed a spring failure in the CCT to cause major engine damage when it released its plunger by releasing all the cam chain slack.

2001 through 2007 Hayabusas (which are the majority of years for the Gen 1 Hayabusas) had the ultra-reliable ratchet/oil mechanism CCT units and they had no problems whatsoever. My 99 Hayabusa has been running with the ratchet/oil mechanism CCT for the past 35,000 miles now with no issues and I don't have to allow my engine to warm up first as you've implied to supposedly get proper lubrication to my cam chain or CCT. That's simply misinformation.

The 99 and 00 Hayabusa OEM and 1st recall Cam Chain Tensioner weak spots were:

1. The twist spring's hook that kept it from unwinding would break off from all the constant flexing. This allowed the smooth plunger to ride back down on its worm gear and allowed too much cam chain slack. End result: The cam chain would jump the intake cam sprocket and cause major engine damage.

2. The CCT plunger, which pushed out on the rear cam chain guide to take up slack was a perfectly smooth plunger. When the spring would break (and they all would in a fairly short time), the slapping of the cam chain would allow the smooth plunger (riding on its worm gear) to simply back down to the point that the cam chain would jump the intake cam sprocket. The plunger itself should have had a means by which to prevent reversal, but it didn't and once the spring broke, there was no force applied that would push the plunger back out. Engine doom would soon follow.

Once Suzuki made the necessary modifications and made it a ratcheted plunger, which could only be extended, but not retracted (unless the CCT unit was removed or at very least, the valve covered removed to get at the plunger release) all was fine. This ratcheted plunger would take up any excess cam chain slack and it worked very reliably. The ratcheted plunger was pushed outward with a compressed spring (rather than the previous "twisted spring" whose end would break off on early CCT units).

Having gone through engine failure with my 99 Hayabusa for a failed CCT spring in the 1st recall CCT unit, I'm an authority on this subject. The OEM CCT gave me about 10,000 miles of service whereas the 1st CCT recall failed after just 3,000 miles. The only visible difference between the original and the 1st CCT recall were the pink dots on the outside of the housing. The original only had a single pink dot whereas the 1st recall CCT units all had 3 pink dots. This made it apparent that Suuzki suspected ahead of time that something was up with their CCT, but they were likely hoping for only isolated failures. Well, lesson learned. Do things right the first time and save yourself the expensive repairs and potential law suits.

Suzuki also added an oil line to the successful ratchet/oil mechanism CCT, but oil getting to the CCT was never really the issue. However, Suzuki paid dearly in many expensive engine repairs by failing to provide all the appropriate primary functionalities in their original CCT in the first place. So, by installing an oil line, oil starvation via "design omission" could NEVER become a claim in a law suit, as it gauranteed Suzuki's intent to provide ALL the necessary primary functions of a CCT unit, including its own lubrication routing. This oil also helps to push the plunger outward, so even if the compression spring would fail (which would still compress upon its broken portion since they ran a pin through the center of the spring, an excellent concept), there is the one-way ratchet plunger itself that should prevent the plunger from backing down, and the oil pressure in the small chamber where it enters the CCT unit will further help to prevent the ratcheted plunger from reversing its direction, as fluids are not easily compressed and there isn't enough can chain pressure to compress the oil in that small oil chamber. Likewise, the ratcheted teeth of the plunger would have to fail in the first place for the plunger to back down and these teeth are a hardened metal.

[WARputer]

Welcome Quasar ! A very informative post sir ! :cheers:

[mr8ball]

Most of the time i just start mine up and go. I have about .5 mile out of my drive and i idle out of it and never have to give it any gas or anything. By the time i get to the road its ready to go. I do notice a little stumble as soon as i start it but it does clear up rather quick. :banana: