Warchild
12-30-2007, 09:43 PM
The Heli-Bars for the K8 are quite similar to the ones on the Gen I Busa, but apparently have the small holes (for switch housings, etc) drilled in slightly different positions.
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/package.jpg
Otherwise, the install is a pretty straightforward business, however there are two somewhat important items that the Heli-Bar instructions FAIL to point out for the K8 install, so I'll include them here in this write-up.
CLUTCH SIDE:
Start by removing the bar end weight and the two phillips-head screws that retain the light switch housing. Note the longer screw is closer to the headlight; the shorter screw is aft towards the rear of the bike (red arrow points to where the short screw is located in the housing):
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clutchFasteners.jpg
Take a 8mm socket to remove the clutch lever/hydraulic cylinder bolts, and now you can easily access the two socket-head bolts that actually retain the clip-on. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove these two bolts. Below, you can see the large dollop of white paint in the socket-head recesses - this is done on the assembly line to indicate that bolt has been torqued to specs:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clip-onSocketBolts.jpg
You only have to loosen the inboard socket-head bolt, but the outboard bolt needs to be completely removed. This is due to the clip-on having a large furrow (circled in red below) that the bolt actually passes through in order to retain and orient the clip-on. The Heli-Bar has an identical furrow in it.
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/RetainingSlot.jpg
Below is the installed left Heli-Bar, with the socket-head bolts torqued to factory specs of 7.5 ft-lbs (which is not a whole lot of torque, mind you):
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/BareClutchSide.jpg
Now here is the first of two OMITTED STEPS in the Heli-Bar installation instructions that I personally feel are kinda important to note.
When you orient the switch housing retaining tab into its attending hole that has been pre-drilled into the Heli-Bar, you will find the wire harness needs to be stretch to an alarming degree. Worse, upon a full lock left turn, the strain put on the wire harness is fairly extreme, and may eventually prove problematic. You need to obtain more slack in this wire harness.
Fortunately, this is fairly easy to do.
Remove the lower instrument dash piece (piece of cake: one small socket-head bolt in the center, two common push-pull pins on the outboard ends of the dash piece) and this will reveal the plastic wire tie (pointed to be red arrow below) that retains the wire harness in question (and a couple others as well). This is a re-usable wire tie clamp - do not cut it!
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ClutchCableTie.jpg
Below is another shot of this wire tie. To "release" the tie in order to gain slack for the wire harness, you want to move that small black tab outward (in the direction the red arrow below is pointing to), and push a small portion of the main tie wrap back through this catch, creating the slack you need.
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ReleaseWireTie.jpg
Once the wire harness has sufficient slack, you can orient the switch housing in its proper place, re-install the two phillips-head screws, and and the two 8mm bolts retaining the clutch lever/hydraulic cylinder housing. Re-install the grip (or a grip of your choice, as I have done below using a BMW "Sport Grip"), and re-install the end weight. Clutch side.... DONE! :thumbs up:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clutchInstalled2.jpg
The astute Busa owner will notice I am using a different Bar End Weight... the heavy "Top Gun" weights from FJRGoodies.com. :thumbs up:
Below is a photo that attempts to show the different orientation between stock (throttle-side) and the Heil-Bar (clutch-side) when installed. Sorry for the flash and relatively poor photo... it's hard to appreciate the difference, but you can see the Heli-bar on the right is definitely higher than stock, and is wider as well:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/HeliBarComparo.jpg
THROTTLE SIDE:
This is quite similar to the clutch side install, though you will find that the phillips-head screws are the same size, so no need to be concerned of which screw goes where. You remove the brake lever/master cylinder just like you did the clutch side (un-hooking the brake light switch connectors first!). Remove the stock clip-on, install the Heli-Bar, and torqued to specs as before.
Here now is the second item the Heli-Bars doesn't mention in their instructions....
When the throttle sleeve is re-oriented into its Heli-Bar position, you will find the two throttle cables themselves are much more taunt than before. As you did with the clutch-side wire harness, you need to create more slack here for the cables. Again, fortunately, this is extremely easy: simply remove the throttle cable clamp on the right side of the steering neck using a 8mm socket, and just leave the clamp off. The cables will remain in position just fine:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ThrottleCableClamp.jpg
Now re-install the rest of the hardware, and do a lock-to-lock check to ensure no component strikes any adjacent area. In my case, my Pazzo brake lever touched the upper dash piece in the area pointed to by the red arrow below. Simply loosen the two 8mm bolts holding the brake lever, and rotate the lever assembly downward, such that it clears the dash pieces.
All done! :thumbs up:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/BrakeStrikePoint.jpg
Time to kick back and admire your work, and have a beer..... :cheers:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/package.jpg
Otherwise, the install is a pretty straightforward business, however there are two somewhat important items that the Heli-Bar instructions FAIL to point out for the K8 install, so I'll include them here in this write-up.
CLUTCH SIDE:
Start by removing the bar end weight and the two phillips-head screws that retain the light switch housing. Note the longer screw is closer to the headlight; the shorter screw is aft towards the rear of the bike (red arrow points to where the short screw is located in the housing):
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clutchFasteners.jpg
Take a 8mm socket to remove the clutch lever/hydraulic cylinder bolts, and now you can easily access the two socket-head bolts that actually retain the clip-on. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove these two bolts. Below, you can see the large dollop of white paint in the socket-head recesses - this is done on the assembly line to indicate that bolt has been torqued to specs:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clip-onSocketBolts.jpg
You only have to loosen the inboard socket-head bolt, but the outboard bolt needs to be completely removed. This is due to the clip-on having a large furrow (circled in red below) that the bolt actually passes through in order to retain and orient the clip-on. The Heli-Bar has an identical furrow in it.
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/RetainingSlot.jpg
Below is the installed left Heli-Bar, with the socket-head bolts torqued to factory specs of 7.5 ft-lbs (which is not a whole lot of torque, mind you):
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/BareClutchSide.jpg
Now here is the first of two OMITTED STEPS in the Heli-Bar installation instructions that I personally feel are kinda important to note.
When you orient the switch housing retaining tab into its attending hole that has been pre-drilled into the Heli-Bar, you will find the wire harness needs to be stretch to an alarming degree. Worse, upon a full lock left turn, the strain put on the wire harness is fairly extreme, and may eventually prove problematic. You need to obtain more slack in this wire harness.
Fortunately, this is fairly easy to do.
Remove the lower instrument dash piece (piece of cake: one small socket-head bolt in the center, two common push-pull pins on the outboard ends of the dash piece) and this will reveal the plastic wire tie (pointed to be red arrow below) that retains the wire harness in question (and a couple others as well). This is a re-usable wire tie clamp - do not cut it!
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ClutchCableTie.jpg
Below is another shot of this wire tie. To "release" the tie in order to gain slack for the wire harness, you want to move that small black tab outward (in the direction the red arrow below is pointing to), and push a small portion of the main tie wrap back through this catch, creating the slack you need.
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ReleaseWireTie.jpg
Once the wire harness has sufficient slack, you can orient the switch housing in its proper place, re-install the two phillips-head screws, and and the two 8mm bolts retaining the clutch lever/hydraulic cylinder housing. Re-install the grip (or a grip of your choice, as I have done below using a BMW "Sport Grip"), and re-install the end weight. Clutch side.... DONE! :thumbs up:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/clutchInstalled2.jpg
The astute Busa owner will notice I am using a different Bar End Weight... the heavy "Top Gun" weights from FJRGoodies.com. :thumbs up:
Below is a photo that attempts to show the different orientation between stock (throttle-side) and the Heil-Bar (clutch-side) when installed. Sorry for the flash and relatively poor photo... it's hard to appreciate the difference, but you can see the Heli-bar on the right is definitely higher than stock, and is wider as well:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/HeliBarComparo.jpg
THROTTLE SIDE:
This is quite similar to the clutch side install, though you will find that the phillips-head screws are the same size, so no need to be concerned of which screw goes where. You remove the brake lever/master cylinder just like you did the clutch side (un-hooking the brake light switch connectors first!). Remove the stock clip-on, install the Heli-Bar, and torqued to specs as before.
Here now is the second item the Heli-Bars doesn't mention in their instructions....
When the throttle sleeve is re-oriented into its Heli-Bar position, you will find the two throttle cables themselves are much more taunt than before. As you did with the clutch-side wire harness, you need to create more slack here for the cables. Again, fortunately, this is extremely easy: simply remove the throttle cable clamp on the right side of the steering neck using a 8mm socket, and just leave the clamp off. The cables will remain in position just fine:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/ThrottleCableClamp.jpg
Now re-install the rest of the hardware, and do a lock-to-lock check to ensure no component strikes any adjacent area. In my case, my Pazzo brake lever touched the upper dash piece in the area pointed to by the red arrow below. Simply loosen the two 8mm bolts holding the brake lever, and rotate the lever assembly downward, such that it clears the dash pieces.
All done! :thumbs up:
http://www.heavybus.com/busa/images/photos/HeliBars/BrakeStrikePoint.jpg
Time to kick back and admire your work, and have a beer..... :cheers: