Brocks Drop-In Kit

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Hi everyone. One of my first few posts here...

Love this site!

Anyone have any experience or information about this kit? It's a Brocks Drop-In kit with pistons, rings, gaskets, cams, etc for about $1650.

It's claimed "Capable of around 190hp to the rear wheel (when properly equipped,) all you need is a suzuki service manual and valve-shims to complete a do-it-yourself installation."

I'm curious if the $1600 gets you the real horses and what 'properly equipped' means. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks peeps! :cheers:

[V8Pinto]

Do you have exhaust? I haven't tried the drop in kit but it's similar to what a buddy of mine just did and he picked up about 10MPH on the top end (translates to about 20HP).

Big improvement...and that's through "stock-ish" exhaust.

I don't know if you'll get 190 out of it without porting the head but you'll definitely get a bunch more power, especially if you're not restricted by stock exhaust.

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I have a Yosh RC3 full exhaust, airbox mod, marble-mod, pcIII, bmc street filter, and 17/42 gears. I have a 16t for the front but not sure I want to have that much on the street if I start commuting to work again.

I'd really like a solid 190-200hp street without being too obvious. I was hoping to get there with minimal work on the motor and mostly bolt-on's and tuning. Not sure if I can so was this drop-in caught my eye.

Does the hump mod get me any extra horseys? :eyecrazy:

[Tybalt]

On my 2002 hayabusa I got mid 190ish RWHP with staying stock 81mm high compression piston kit by YOSH 12:1 C/R, YOSH stage 1 cams, USB, full YOSH tri-oval dual tip exhaust, stainless valves, head lazer porting, velocity stacks(x2 short, x2 long) aftermarket K&N air filter, 1mm over size valves, high volume oil gear etc... STOCK BORE, naturally aspirated:whistling:

REALIZATION= I loved my 02 busa, however with all the work, time and $, i find it amazing with little to none mods, my K8 hayabusa is pretty close to those #'s and with some dyno time how the new GenII is that much better IMO, im never knocking GenI hayabusas, i love them, i loved mine, just hats off to Suzuki for making the genII that much better, that is my conclusion haveing owned both Gens Hayabusas.

[Quasar]

I have a Yosh RC3 full exhaust, airbox mod, marble-mod, pcIII, bmc street filter, and 17/42 gears. I have a 16t for the front but not sure I want to have that much on the street if I start commuting to work again.

I'd really like a solid 190-200hp street without being too obvious. I was hoping to get there with minimal work on the motor and mostly bolt-on's and tuning. Not sure if I can so was this drop-in caught my eye.

Does the hump mod get me any extra horseys? :eyecrazy:

Expecting RWHP in the 190 to 200 range from Brocks' kit is a bit unrealistic (except on a "happy" dyno) with its relatively mild cams, but somewhat close to 190 RWHP isn't out of the question with accurate power tuning. The 13:1 pistons are a good choice, but I'd go with a higher lift intake cam than the little .360" lift 244 degree duration that Brocks' kit provides. I'm fairly certain that Brock realizes there isn't enough "valve free travel" to allow use of a higher lift intake cam (without installing shorter valve guides or using thinner Titanium retainers as I did), so that's why his intake cam retains a fairly mild lift of only .360" (which is only .015" more lift than the .345" OEM intake cam and only .006" more lift than the mild .354" Yosh intake cam).

I use .378"/.330" Web cams (with .030" thinner APE Titanium retainers to provide the necessary "valve free travel" for the Web .378" intake cam) with 81mm 12.3:1 JE pistons, APE 53 pound valve springs, APE adjustable cam sprockets degreed 105 intake, 107 exhaust, and my engine performance is very satisfying. My engine would have greater potential still had I gone with the higher 81mm 13:1 Wiseco pistons, but hard, hot engine cranking with just one OEM battery was my concern at the time I was building, so I compromised and went with the 12.3:1 JE pistons. I now run two batteries in parallel for improved hot engine cranking, so I wish I had actually goen with the 13:1 pistons (though I have no complaints whatsoever with the JE pistons, now 35,000 miles later).

Here's a link to Brocks' drop-in kit for those interested...

http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4939315&showprevnext=1

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Thats exactly what I've been wondering about... instead of pouring money into the older machine - just get a new one, put on the bolt-on's, and I'm about there. My goal of 200hp remains. I just want it without spending $3500 or so to get there.

Thanks for the tip. I think I'll just wait and go with the Gen II. Anybody wanna buy a 2004 LE? ;-)

[Quasar]

Thats exactly what I've been wondering about... instead of pouring money into the older machine - just get a new one, put on the bolt-on's, and I'm about there. My goal of 200hp remains. I just want it without spending $3500 or so to get there.

Thanks for the tip. I think I'll just wait and go with the Gen II. Anybody wanna buy a 2004 LE? ;-)

On the other hand, only having to spend a few thousand to achieve 200 RWHP on your existing 2004 Hayabusa is still less expensive than having to purchase a new 2008 Hayabusa, open it up and purchase performance parts.

Additionally, making an engine that starts out less powerful than the new 2008 Hayabusa engine even MORE powerful is quite gradifying and there are already tons of performance parts available for the earlier model Hayabusas. I wouldn't be quite so eager to sell that which still has great potential. You may just want to consider higher lift cams and going to 13:1 1397cc pistons on your existing 2004 Hayabusa. It's something worth giving greater thought to. :thumbs up:

[Bigrod330]

How about a Carpenter Kit? There around $3800 installed and claim 220hp.

[Tybalt]

How about a Carpenter Kit? There around $3800 installed and claim 220hp.

:thumbs up: I hear great things about Carpenter, they know their shit!

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How about a Carpenter Kit? There around $3800 installed and claim 220hp.

How is my reliability after putting on a kit like this? I hope I don't sound like an idiot.

I love the reliability since I'm a rider - not a poser. I really enjoy riding all over the place and so having something that is reliable AND super fast - is the best of both worlds. A 220hp daily driver that'll knock the socks off most anyone on the street.

Then - I might run a few 1/4's at the strip - just for fun. Do I need 2 bikes or am is my wishing OK?

(sanity check!)

:cheers:

[V8Pinto]

Cheap - Reliable - Fast

Pick any two....

Carpenter has a cool 190+hp kit that is basically cams and head porting. I think expecting 190HP from the Brock's kit without head porting is a bit optimistic.

Take a look at what Quasar did with the 12.3:1 JE Pistons.

What about a dry shot? your bike is already in the 150-160ish range right? put on a 40 shot and be done with it. Tiger Racing has the bottle you can hide in the hump.

[Quasar]

How is my reliability after putting on a kit like this? I hope I don't sound like an idiot.

I love the reliability since I'm a rider - not a poser. I really enjoy riding all over the place and so having something that is reliable AND super fast - is the best of both worlds. A 220hp daily driver that'll knock the socks off most anyone on the street.

Then - I might run a few 1/4's at the strip - just for fun. Do I need 2 bikes or am is my wishing OK?

(sanity check!)

:cheers:

That's why I only built to the level that I did. Reliability was a crucial element for me since I typically ride hundreds of miles away from home. My Web intake cam is only .033" greater in lift than the OEM intake cam; enough to make a noticeable improvement, but not so radical as to dramatically reduce reliability especially since I also installed the aftermarket APE valve springs.

And, two great bikes are always better than one. :cheers:

[_WOLFMAN_]

Another thing about Brocks claim if you look and read the Dyno Charts on his site is he uses MR-9 Race fuel that you cannot use on the street and I have seen dyno results that have had two map done one for pump gas and one for the track and race gas on the same dyno, same bike and results were a boost of between 8-10 hp just by adding the oxygenated race fuel.