Second radiator cooler with a hot engine? [Archive]

PrimalBusa

10-31-2010, 12:07 PM

Well, here is a midway project update on the Hayabusa 2nd radiator fan

Cost to order:$302.00
You'll get good at removing and reinstalling the radiator.
1] Remove lower fairing
2] Remove plastic trim in front of radiator and oil cooler.
3] Remove hoses from radiator only and drain coolant.
4] Remove 3 fasteners that hold oil cooler on but do not remove oil
cooler or it's hoses, just let it rest on the bottom middle
bracket. You need this space to remove radiator.
5] Remove radiator from bike by removing 3 fasteners.
take the top right screw out last as you will be removing it
from the right side of bike.
6] Position radiator on work bench with original fan still on.
You will visualize the symetry needed to set up a almost
mirror image set up for the right side.
7] You must realize that the second fan will be slightly lower than
the first because of a reinforcement tube from one side of the
frame to the other.
Take a look at it and you will see that it is flattened out to
make room for the fan.
8] You will wind up drilling out all the spot welds to all the
brackets and repositioning them along with the heat shield
and loever screen.
9] Rotate fan so that protective screen is on the right side.
You will start by slightly overlapping the fan over the old one
and grinding a small amount of metal from the left side of shroud to allow it to overlap over existing fan to clear the right side of radiator tank. It is pretty
self explanatory when you see it.
10] Start by removing the lower center bracket, "the flat one"
from the shroud. Then put it over the other lower middle
bracket from the first fan and lightly screw it on.

Lay the 2nd fan on the Radiator and position the bracket
so it looks as symetrical as you can to the first one.
Mark the position of the bracket on the shroud and mark it for
drilling with 1/8" drill.
You'll notice that the drilled out spot welds leave a hole nearly
1/4 ". Use washers made for rivets. I used 1/8" in steel rivets,
but you can use larger ones.
Remember to rivet from the inside out to clear fan blade.
11] Next remove the long bracket to attach to lower right side of
radiator where there is a support for the hose.

This bracket comes real close to the exhaust pipe so before
attaching permanently install radiator with 3 screws
for reference and mark the spots.
12] Remove fan motor by removing 3 phillips screws.
You need to do this to rivet brackets.
Thinner rivets work best since the motor will be
resting over them some.
13] Rivet this bracket in place and remember to rivet from the inside out.
14] Remove mesh grill and place inch clockwise from where it was.
This will be about 3/16" from the lower right hand bracket you
just riveted in place.
15] Remove the bracket that goes from shroud to fan mount plate.
This is the bracket that doesn't bolt to anything.
position this bracket as symetrically as possible to the one on
the first fan. Rivet in place.
16] Remove the heat shield bracket an position so the right side of
this heat shield bracket is touching the "lower right hand side
mounting bracket". This heat shield bracket will now inbetween
the lower right hand side bracket and the lower center bracket.
17] Read this CAREFULLY: Next mount the new fan shroud assembly
by the lower center bracket and the lower right hand bracket.
Then mount the radiator with the top screws ONLY. Then swing the
radiator back like you were going to screw in the lower center
screw. YOU will NOTICE that you can't screw the lower screw in
because the newly positioned heat shield bracket contacts
the skinny tube next to the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe may
also have slight interference. Mark that spot or spots and
then grind out a clearance to fit.
Keep doing this trial and fit until you achieved the proper
clearance.
18] As you noticed I left the hardest for last. And that is the
short bracket that will go on the upper right hand of radiator.
This bracket will need something to bolt on to on the upper
right hand side of radiator.
You will have to make a piece from some 1/8" aluminum or 1/16"
steel. Also room must be provide for a small radiator purge
hose.
19] The upper right hand bracket is the last one to mount.
With the radiator and fans attached,lay the radiator on the bench.
This bracket will be right against the mesh grill on the
top and just clearing a fan motor mount screw on bottom.
Rivet it in position. The mount hole on top of the bracket
where it will attach to the radiator should be just above
the top of the radiator.
20] All that is left is attaching a 90 degree angle bracket to
the radiator to screw in the last fan mount.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. SO READ AND BE VERY CAREFUL.
YOU WILL BE ATTACHING THIS BRACKET DIRECTLY TO THE TOP OF THE
RADIATOR.THE TOP OF THE RADIATOR ALTHOUGH PAINTED BLACK IS NOT
STEEL BUT IT IS ALUMINUM. RIGHT BELOW IS FINS AND RIGHT BELOW
THAT IS THE FIRST COOLANT RUNNER TUBE. IF YOU ARE HAM HANDED
AND ARE RUNNING YOUR DRILL AT FULL BLAST YOU MIGHT AS WELL STOP
HERE BECAUSE YOU WILL RUIN THE RADIATOR.
21] I made this bracket from a piece of galvanized 90 degree bracket
like you find at Home Depot to put on 2x4's. I then cut it
roughly with aviation snips and then ground it down to final
shape on the grinder.
The bottom part of the bracket where it will be attached to the
radiator will slide all the way to the right until it is next to
the radiator tank.
The upper part of the bracket where the fan will attach to is
slightly shorter to allow room to clear the radiator cap.
Position the bracket where it will go and mark spots for at least
four 1/8" steel rivets. You will notice that there is a whole
punched out on the top of the radiator and that the bracket will
be over this whole so don't put any rivets in that area.
The rivet pattern will not be symetrical so don't worry.
KEEP IN MIND TO REMEMBER HOW MUCH SPACE THE NOSE OF THE POP RIVET
TOOL TAKES UP WHEN MARKING HOLES BEFORE DRILLING BRACKET. Drill the holes in the bracket first and then place on radiator
and mark the holes in radiator. Start the very carefull drilling
of the holes for radiator, each time stick a short reach 1/8"
rivet in place and then mark the spot for the next rivet.
When you're done drill the hole in the bracket for the fan to
mount to. Use a 6mm x 1mm threaded speed nut and slip it over
the bracket. Rivet the bracket to the radiator.
22] Next you will notice that the fan motor has a small hole
in the body to allow for drainage. I ground out the hole in the
middle of the fan cage to rotate the fan so the hole is nearer
to vertical. You might be asking why I didn't rotate the plate
before I put all the repositioned brackets in.
I did this so that I could maintain the alignment of that
fan mount plate and save a little time.
23] Well you should now have the new fan all done.and ready for
mounting. All that is left is the wiring set up.

Electrical installation:
The Busa has a relay for the fan by the fuse box.
This relay turns on the fan by supplying a ground to the fan motor.
The fan motor is always supplied battery voltage when the ignition is on and the relay turns on the fan by completing it's ground circuit.
To make things simple I created a mirror image of the wiring to the second radiator fan motor with a second relay added so as to not overstress the original relay.
1) Start by supplying a fused 10 amp. positive wire from the battery plus terminal to the second fan.
2) Next obtain the additional relay you will need and run wire from the original relay coil wires to the second relay coil wires.
The original relay coil wires are Black/white and Orange/red.
3)Then run a good 14ga. ground feed wire to the relay power terminal and connect this wire to the left instrument cluster mount bolt, this is a good ground.
4) Finally run the switched ground wire from the last power terminal of the second relay to your fan motor black wire.
For those of you that don't know which relay terminal is which read the following.
You need a relay with only 4 terminals. The relay must be at least a 20 amp capacity.The two terminals that are parallel to each other are the coil side of the relay. The coil side magnetizes the relay and pulls down the contacts. The two terminals that are not parallel are the power terminals.These are the terminals that go to the motor.
It doesn't really matter on the coil side which wire is negative or positive and the same goes for the power side of the relay. But remember that if the relay is switching a ground, then the relay must be supplied a ground.Or if switching a positive hot then supply the relay with a hot. NEVER FEED THE RELAY POWER TERMINALS A HOT AND A GROUND. THIS IS A NO NO. WHEN YOU TURN ON THE RELAY IN THIS MODE YOU WILL LET THE SMOKE OUT, THATS REALLLL BAD.
AGAIN: REMEMBER THAT THE FAN MOTOR IS ALWAYS SUPPLIED POSITIVE AND THAT THE RELAY TURNS ON THE FAN BY SWITCHING A GROUND.
If you need a wiring diagram e:mail me jcresponaples@aol.com

The second fan works great and with both fans running it takes 20 seconds before they cycle off. Faster than when only one fan is running.
I always solder all my wiring add on jobs. If your not good at soldering you can use crimp on butt connectors and scotchlock connectors. I won't get into how I routed the wires, but common sense should prevail as to wher they go.

I have no photos as this article was written up 10yrs ago by me. They have all disappeared into "The Cloud"
The Muzzy's aluminum blades would be nice to do when doing the dual fan setup.