REMOVING the '08 Right Side Cowling

[Warchild]

To remove the 2008 Busa right side cowling, there are a dozen fasteners/clips that need to be extracted. Half of these are the larger style "push-clips", as seen below.


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/PlasticPushClips.jpg



Four of these are shouldered bolts (4mm allen key to removed), and one small hex-head bolt (10mm socket with 6" extension here). Here are all the fasteners after removal... the metal bolts are numbered so as to refer to their location:

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/BoltsRemoved.jpg



Location of Bolts 1 & 2 are fairly obvious, and are the only "exposed" bolts you can see externally:


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/Bolts1and2.jpg



Bolts 3 & 4 are located on the upper right dash panel, as seen below:


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/Bolts3and4.jpg



Bolt #5 (10mm hex-head) is well-hidden. You must lay on your back (literally), and look upwards through this lower right cowling opening pointed to yellow arrow (a Mag flashlight helps if in the garage)


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/Bolt5location.jpg



Close-up of Bolt #5. A 1/4" drive 10mm socket with 6" extension makes quick work of this fastener:


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/10mmBolt.jpg


Removing the 1/2 dozen or so "Push-Clips" is easy enough, once you find them all. The photo below shows the one at the steering neck; page 7-17 of your owner's Manual shows the location of all the others. Exercise patience tracking them all down...


http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/RemovingPushClip.jpg


The rearmost belly-pan is retained by slotted "hooks" at the rear of the side cowling, PLUS two of the "Push-Clips" that are affixed to a bracket that surrounds the Regulator/Rectifier. It's not a whole lot of fun accessing these Push-Clips to remove them using the above method; I just used a flat-blade screwdriver to push the center pin from the backside , toward the head of the Push-Clip. Below is a good close-up of the right-hand side R/R clip. There is one of these on either side of the R/R. Good times, here.

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/RandR_Clips.jpg


Once you have removed all the fasteners, now the cowling is going to fall right off after you pull the remaining two nylon pins from their respective Frame Grommets. Yellow arrow point to one of these nylon pins having just been yoinked out of its attending frame grommet:

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/FrameGrommet.jpg


Success! With the cowling off, it's an easy shot to the oil filter, which was the entire motivation for this cowling removal exercise:

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/CowlingRemoved.jpg


There is the end target right there. T'was a bit of work to access, but it spins right off after you loosen it. I don't have a oil filter cap that fits properly, but Channel-Locks are your friend. This came off easily.

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/OilFilter.jpg


Damnation, it seems like the oil filters spins forever when I removed it for the first time.... shyeah, you can see why: a mile long thread adapter! Note a square of aluminum foil wrapped around header pipes to keep oil from oozing all over them. Also note how I still managed to dork up and get a little bit of oil on the pipes anyway:

http://www.superblackbird.com/heavybus/photos/rightsidecowling/AlumFoil.jpg


Hope this helps my Busa brethren out.... working slow and methodical the first time you do this could go a long way to prevent busting up a bunch of expensive tupperware.....

[Tybalt]

STICKIED!, To The Top, thanks Bro!, great info:thumbs up:

[rccturbos]

Bolt #5 does not need to be removed as the fairing pushes into a grommet at that point. Also the rear most belly pan will unclip from the panel without removal of the push pins. We just disassembled our 08 to get it ready for turbo fitting, the panel is a little tougher to remove then previous models, but no too bad.

Richard

[poboybusa]

Bolt #5 does not need to be removed as the fairing pushes into a grommet at that point. Also the rear most belly pan will unclip from the panel without removal of the push pins. We just disassembled our 08 to get it ready for turbo fitting, the panel is a little tougher to remove then previous models, but no too bad.

Richard
if you will apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to all clips and nylon pins it will make removal and installation much more "user-friendly" . also if you do remove the rear-most belly pan , when re-installing push pins go from the center out. this will help the next time reaching the center of the pin to release. p.s. great article

[Warchild]

great article

Thanks, poboybusa, but I really need to update it ASAP, as I have removed the side cowling a number of times since originally writing this article, and I picked up a bunch of tips along the way to make it easier and prevent snapping off tabs/hooks/pins.

[mcbean]

Excellent photos and very clear for dummies like me !!!

[Hayamaniac]

Just so I can find it easily....thanks War, :thumbs up:

[Tybalt]

*Update Quote from Warchild:


1) Ensure the other large rubber grommets are free of their attending nylon pins. This is shown in the Owners Manual pretty lamely, I'll admit.

2) Remember, when freeing the *top-most*, *rear-most* rubber grommet (Grommet 'A' below, the one closest to the fuel tank), you gently reef the black trim piece STRAIGHT UPWARD, not "outward" as you do for the other grommets. The other three, those you pull straight *outboard* (perpendicular to the frame of the bike.)

3) Ensure the cowling halves at completely separated at the bottom chin area. This is critically important, because you can not "flex" the leading edge pieces properly to free the multiple tabs/slots up there unless the chin pieces are *completely* free of one another.

4) Now start at the bottom chin area, and separate the cowling from the smaller inner black triangular piece, working upwards toward the top.

5) Now for the last part: once everything is totally free, you slide the big cowling piece *rearward* and slightly *downward* to free it completely from the bike.

Work slow, work methodically.... don't force $hit, because that's in indicator something is still not un-made/un-hook/what-have-you.

And breathe while doing all this. Easier said than done... believe me, I know.

[prov431]

Damn, I wish I read this update before I did my body work removal! (I had printed out the original instructions)
I ended up breaking the middle plastic tab...the one that pulls up instead of out.
Not very user friendly design on that one Suzuki!!!

[Tybalt]

Damn, I wish I read this update before I did my body work removal! (I had printed out the original instructions)
I ended up breaking the middle plastic tab...the one that pulls up instead of out.
Not very user friendly design on that one Suzuki!!!
Ouch, sorry to hear bro about the !@#$ tabs, guys have said to lube the grommets/washers etc... makes for easier use, thats why we are here @ The BusaNation try to provide a lot of technical resources and write ups to help assist our Busa brothers out!:smoke:-Duane

[BRKNWNG]

Damn, I wish I read this update before I did my body work removal! (I had printed out the original instructions)
I ended up breaking the middle plastic tab...the one that pulls up instead of out.
Not very user friendly design on that one Suzuki!!!
I broke the same piece on my third removal! Oh YES! Be sure not to lose any push tabs ripsuzuki is quite proud of those babies @$3.00 to $5.00 a piece depending on the size. Believe me I experienced or my wallet is.

[Val375]

Wow, I just picked up my K8 about a week ago. I should be ready to due my first oil change this weekend and after riding a 06 R1, I hope I dont ass this up. :Suicide_smiley:

[Skomansteve]

Wow, I just picked up my K8 about a week ago. I should be ready to due my first oil change this weekend and after riding a 06 R1, I hope I dont ass this up. :Suicide_smiley:

Hey Val, welcome to Busanation + take it easy with those clips.... :thumbs up:

[Claudiorf600r]

Great pics and a very good description.
A topic for future use:cheers:

[Val375]

Hey, thanks for the info. Armed with this information, I had no problems doing my oil change. :banana:

[tinmann8]

Well Done :cheers:

[Tybalt]

Well Done :cheers:
UPDATE: Courtesy of BUSA159:cheers:


There are two rubber grommets located in the upper part of the side panels.
They are mounted in the ram air ducts.
If you or your mechanic are not careful, they can come off and will lay helpless inside the ram air duct. You will not know unless you shine a flashlight in the duct from the front and look to the very back of the duct.
If this has happened and you have been riding (fast enough to blow the grommet back into the airbox) when you open the airbox and remove the filter, BINGO!!! there they are lying there all by them their lonesome.
so my point is this.
If you don't change oil and have it done, you will learn how good your mechanic is on a GEN 2, and if he really cares.
If you do your own,you will understand what to check for when putting the side panel back on.
I have a method which should work. It took me three times to get it right.
Anyone interested let me know.
If you have had your Gen 2 apart, you understand, the panels are a handful. Especially the first time. Can't be done in a big hurry.

[WarBirdII]

I like the way you all are adding tips along the way. I use Die electric grease on the rubber gromets and nipples on the fairings. This helps too.

[Tybalt]

I like the way you all are adding tips along the way. I use Die electric grease on the rubber gromets and nipples on the fairings. This helps too.
Thank-you, i will be doing this as well, when i put on my exhaust i will have my labtop on so i can follow along:roll eyes:

[cat82471]

What are the steps to remove the fuse and dash cover? The owners manual is vague at best. I'm trying to avoid snapping plastic parts.

[Tybalt]

A heads up lesson learned from our Z-faucon, he busted a tab, so I wanted to post his pics and a warning to others on how to avoid doing such:


Quote from Warchild
"The reason this happened is that, unlike the rest of the nylon pins on the fairings (that you pulled straight *outboard* to remove), those upper-most, center nylon pins must be pulled straight *upward* to clear their rubber grommets, before you try to pull the fairing outboard as you do with the rest of the pins."

Im concerned because I have to install my exhaust. Warchild, so you are saying pull "UP" NOT "OUT"?????:umm:

[Warchild]

A heads up lesson learned from our Z-faucon, he busted a tab, so I wanted to post his pics and a warning to others on how to avoid doing such:


Quote from Warchild
"The reason this happened is that, unlike the rest of the nylon pins on the fairings (that you pulled straight *outboard* to remove), those upper-most, center nylon pins must be pulled straight *upward* to clear their rubber grommets, before you try to pull the fairing outboard as you do with the rest of the pins."

Im concerned because I have to install my exhaust. Warchild, so you are saying pull "UP" NOT "OUT"?????:umm:

Correct, but ONLY for the top-most nylon pin. All others do pull straight *outward*.

What may help you out the first time, Duane, is to go ahead and take a 4mm allen wrench and remove the two socket-head fasteners at the front of the gas tank (immediately behind the steering neck) and raise the tank up, and use the steel rod (located under your pillion seat) to prop up the fuel tank.

With the fuel tank out of the way, now you can easily curl your fingers underneath that center portion of the cowling that contains that nylon pin, and gently pry in straight upwards towards the ceiling to get the pin to clear the rubber grommet. :thumbs up:

[Tybalt]

Correct, but ONLY for the top-most nylon pin. All others do pull straight *outward*.

What may help you out the first time, Duane, is to go ahead and take a 4mm allen wrench and remove the two socket-head fasteners at the front of the gas tank (immediately behind the steering neck) and raise the tank up, and use the steel rod (located under your pillion seat) to prop up the fuel tank.

With the fuel tank out of the way, now you can easily curl your fingers underneath that center portion of the cowling that contains that nylon pin, and gently pry in straight upwards towards the ceiling to get the pin to clear the rubber grommet. :thumbs up:

You Da man!:cheers: great stuff, will do, i had a bitch of a time with the tie strap holding the tail lite connector lol to remove the hidious mudflap. Txs To SkomanSteve's write up removing the push pins, i was able to get it and the reflector brackets:roll eyes:

Warchild this should help me to get the right side cowl off to put on my exhaust:smoke:-Duane

[busakid]

Thanks to all for their contributions of tips taking the right panel off it helped me figger out how to remove the complete fairing fron the bike and took some of the pain away - I still had to work out a few things and discovered that it is easier to take off the complete fairing to install my new R-77 full system (a pain in the butt at first!) and got everything back in without any screws/pins or anything left over yay.
AND WHAT A DIFFERENCE !!!!!! The bike actually feeld like a sports bike now and turns beautifully LOVE IT !!!

Now I have learnt how to take off teh fairings etc I have to go through the process again at some stage and replace the radiator - minor hole after a 320kph run but sealed for the moment.

THanks guys again for your info
BK

[08Busa]

UPDATE: Courtesy of BUSA159:cheers:


There are two rubber grommets located in the upper part of the side panels.
They are mounted in the ram air ducts.
If you or your mechanic are not careful, they can come off and will lay helpless inside the ram air duct. You will not know unless you shine a flashlight in the duct from the front and look to the very back of the duct.
If this has happened and you have been riding (fast enough to blow the grommet back into the airbox) when you open the airbox and remove the filter, BINGO!!! there they are lying there all by them their lonesome.
so my point is this.
If you don't change oil and have it done, you will learn how good your mechanic is on a GEN 2, and if he really cares.
If you do your own,you will understand what to check for when putting the side panel back on.
I have a method which should work. It took me three times to get it right.
Anyone interested let me know.
If you have had your Gen 2 apart, you understand, the panels are a handful. Especially the first time. Can't be done in a big hurry.


This is so true. It happened to me already once. I'm the one to blame since I do all my own.

Here's the grommet in question. Please see pic.

Cheers!

[Tybalt]

This is so true. It happened to me already once. I'm the one to blame since I do all my own.

Here's the grommet in question. Please see pic.

Cheers!

:cheers: Thank-you sir, that helps everyone-Duane

[Tybalt]

This is so true. It happened to me already once. I'm the one to blame since I do all my own.

Here's the grommet in question. Please see pic.

Cheers!

WARNING ALL K8 OWNERS PLEASE FOLLOW

Kneedragger just had this happen to him, he was running no air filter and both grommets got sucked down into the head, please make sure you check these 2 rubber grommets are secure in place into the genII air ram tubes, his K8 went all wacked until they pulled it apart and found the pieces in the head!!!!!!:head meets wall:

[888hayabusa]

:thumbs up:Nice job you've done there and nice pics:thumbs up::thumbs up:Thanks

[Superduc]

Glad to have found some tips on how to remove the cowlings.

Began work on getting the cowlings off to install the exhaust system. I seem to have removed all the fasteners. Not clear why the cowlings won't separate from the nose portion of the fairing and also at the bottom front??

Any ideas on where I've gone wrong? :head meets wall:

[TimJF]

Glad to have found some tips on how to remove the cowlings.

Began work on getting the cowlings off to install the exhaust system. I seem to have removed all the fasteners. Not clear why the cowlings won't separate from the nose portion of the fairing and also at the bottom front??

Any ideas on where I've gone wrong? :head meets wall:

Remember that silver screw you took out up towards the bars? Well near there is one of those big "push-grommet" things. Once you get that out - the whole side fairing just wants to fall off.

I'm going to re-post a picture that clearly shows the "push-grommet" that I'm talking about.

6243

It takes some force to make it pop out.
From my experience, this is the only black-magic to the whole process. Best of luck with it mate! :cheers:

[Superduc]

Thanks! I'll get back at it today. Only about 200 km on my new bike and I really want to ride this machine with the R77 full system installed. :thumbs up:

[Superduc]

I have pulled the grommets out on both sides. Still not sure how the fairing releases from the nose portion of the fairing. The bottom part of the cowling directly in front of the front tire had to be pulled down then to the side to release each side from the plastic buttons located there.http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/storm_rider02/DSCN0508.jpg

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/storm_rider02/DSCN0510.jpg

[Superduc]

Now I understand how it's taken apart. :banana:

A beautiiful sight...
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/storm_rider02/DSCN0512.jpg

[Tybalt]

Great pics, congrats bro:cheers:

[Superduc]

Done at last ! :oh yeah:

Definitely feels lighter !

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/storm_rider02/DSCN0517.jpg

[Tybalt]

Looks great, nice choice, any plans to remove the fender/mudflap?, removinf the 4 rear bolts, reflectors will clean up the ass end a lot and you can use the reflector brackets to make a plate bracket

[Superduc]

Thanks! Might just keep it that way, doesn't splash the gf if the road is wet. :thumbs up:

[Tybalt]

I borrowed this k8 pic, but i did the same thing when i had some hold ups removing the K8 hayabusa oil filter, i just removed the oil cooler line as well.

[Amblyopic]

*Update Quote from Warchild:


1) Ensure the other large rubber grommets are free of their attending nylon pins. This is shown in the Owners Manual pretty lamely, I'll admit.

2) Remember, when freeing the *top-most*, *rear-most* rubber grommet (Grommet 'A' below, the one closest to the fuel tank), you gently reef the black trim piece STRAIGHT UPWARD, not "outward" as you do for the other grommets. The other three, those you pull straight *outboard* (perpendicular to the frame of the bike.)

3) Ensure the cowling halves at completely separated at the bottom chin area. This is critically important, because you can not "flex" the leading edge pieces properly to free the multiple tabs/slots up there unless the chin pieces are *completely* free of one another.

4) Now start at the bottom chin area, and separate the cowling from the smaller inner black triangular piece, working upwards toward the top.

5) Now for the last part: once everything is totally free, you slide the big cowling piece *rearward* and slightly *downward* to free it completely from the bike.

Work slow, work methodically.... don't force $hit, because that's in indicator something is still not un-made/un-hook/what-have-you.

And breathe while doing all this. Easier said than done... believe me, I know.


Dammit. I know I have the same bike as y'all, but it feels like mine's completely alien to the instructions you're giving. Granted I'm no mechanic, but I can follow instructions and look at pictures to get the gist of things.....


I'm stuck. :(

I've got all the bolts out, top push pin out @ the steering neck, the two "center push" pushpins from the middle bottom forward (btw 3mm allen head is great for that). I can't seem to get anything else to detach/delatch/dehook/de-wtf-ever.

Frustration is where I'm at now folks. I took the seat off and pulled the fuel tank cover back (as one of our other brothers stated) and that allowed me to get the hook out of the "A" hook in the picture below....

http://www.busanation.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1300&d=1200624208


But like I said, I'm stuck. I did take out the body cowling cover, which now i'm wondering if it was necessary..... hey, it looked like the push-pins there seemed to be ones identified for removal. I"m following the instructions in the maint manual 9D-17. In y'alls pictures and this instruction it looks like it isn't needed to remove the right inner-under cowling or under cowling to get this done, y'all are just detaching it from it's anchor points....

how?

Like I said, I'm stuck..... and it doesn't help the wifey-to-be keeps asking "arn't you done yet? when are you going to stop messing with that? do you know what you're doing?" arg.

[SoulsofBlack]

Thanks for this thread!!! It helped a lot when I had to take the fairing off.

After I took it off... got to wondering why I thought it was so hard. :rofl:
Again thank you.

[Superduc]

Dammit. I know I have the same bike as y'all, but it feels like mine's completely alien to the instructions you're giving. Granted I'm no mechanic, but I can follow instructions and look at pictures to get the gist of things.....


I'm stuck. :(

I've got all the bolts out, top push pin out @ the steering neck, the two "center push" pushpins from the middle bottom forward (btw 3mm allen head is great for that). I can't seem to get anything else to detach/delatch/dehook/de-wtf-ever.

Frustration is where I'm at now folks. I took the seat off and pulled the fuel tank cover back (as one of our other brothers stated) and that allowed me to get the hook out of the "A" hook in the picture below....

http://www.busanation.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1300&d=1200624208


But like I said, I'm stuck. I did take out the body cowling cover, which now i'm wondering if it was necessary..... hey, it looked like the push-pins there seemed to be ones identified for removal. I"m following the instructions in the maint manual 9D-17. In y'alls pictures and this instruction it looks like it isn't needed to remove the right inner-under cowling or under cowling to get this done, y'all are just detaching it from it's anchor points....

how?

Like I said, I'm stuck..... and it doesn't help the wifey-to-be keeps asking "arn't you done yet? when are you going to stop messing with that? do you know what you're doing?" arg.


Just finished doing the first oil and filter change and had to remove the right side cowling again. A lot easier the 2nd time - the real tricky part I found was separating the cowling from the nose portion of the fairing.

Only one of the push pins should be removed from the underside of the nose portion on the right hand side. Then you slip your finger in between there to get the cowling to release from the nose portion. Then gently pull the cowling down and back to release it completely.

The other tricky part is to put the fairing back together underneath just behind the front wheel. Pay attention to how it goes together before taking it apart and remember what you saw. I think the right side cowling fits under the left side cowling at the front hole, and the right side cowling fits over the left side cowling at the rear hole (or is it the other way around??).

[TimJF]

Only one of the push pins should be removed from the underside of the nose portion on the right hand side.

Yeah it's interesting how this differs to the left side.

I don't think it causes a problem to remove both though?

[george henry]

great info uys. but after hearin about broken tabs . i just deceided to that it to the suzuki dealer. And to my surprise it took the mechanic almost 2 hours to chane the oil and filter. beleive me i had to arrived 20 minute ealier just to cool down the motor. And the clock strted riht then, i ot to watch the whole process. When he statrted to pull away the side , i had to stop him , he was fightin it. I ot the shop manger and told him that the mechanic knew what he was doing . I ask the mechanic if had change hayabusa and he said quite a lot. then I found out that this was his first 2008 model and i advice him in front of the shop manager that the grommet pin is on top of the frame so the body has to be liften upward. To both there surprise i show them how it is done at that point. . Guys if I wasn't there top watch the whole thing, I am 100 % that the guy would have broken that tab from the side panel or just the pin . Now after seeing how it is done which was the main reason i had them do the oil, change.
man was I glad i stay and watch the whole time. their time rate is $65.00 per hour rate. plus partds. And in thier comutor it only show 1/2 hour rate of $32.50 plus parts oil filter and 3/ 1/2 quarts of oil Suzuki 10 w -40 best $54.70 spent only had log on 974 miles on bike.. the filter was $10.65 and oil was their suzuki reular oil when i go back at 4,000 miles i will use the semi syntheic brand then.

[Tybalt]

great info uys. but after hearin about broken tabs . i just deceided to that it to the suzuki dealer. And to my surprise it took the mechanic almost 2 hours to chane the oil and filter. beleive me i had to arrived 20 minute ealier just to cool down the motor. And the clock strted riht then, i ot to watch the whole process. When he statrted to pull away the side , i had to stop him , he was fightin it. I ot the shop manger and told him that the mechanic knew what he was doing . I ask the mechanic if had change hayabusa and he said quite a lot. then I found out that this was his first 2008 model and i advice him in front of the shop manager that the grommet pin is on top of the frame so the body has to be liften upward. To both there surprise i show them how it is done at that point. . Guys if I wasn't there top watch the whole thing, I am 100 % that the guy would have broken that tab from the side panel or just the pin . Now after seeing how it is done which was the main reason i had them do the oil, change.
man was I glad i stay and watch the whole time. their time rate is $65.00 per hour rate. plus partds. And in thier comutor it only show 1/2 hour rate of $32.50 plus parts oil filter and 3/ 1/2 quarts of oil Suzuki 10 w -40 best $54.70 spent only had log on 974 miles on bike.. the filter was $10.65 and oil was their suzuki reular oil when i go back at 4,000 miles i will use the semi syntheic brand then.

yes, do it yourself bro:thumbs up:

[Bellabusa]

Im not trying to brag but taking the right side fairng is very easy. I had more trouble getting a oil filter wrench on than dealing with the fairing. This job should take about 30min max. I used Warchilds instructions that he posted on this forum and it was a breeze.

[ccbusa09]

Question for you guys that have done the right fairing removal. I'll be attacking said job towards the end of the week to do my first 600 mile service. The PowerPoint presentation with pics is awesome, but it includes the removal of the belly pan in addition to the main fairing. There is no reference to removing the belly pan in the Owner's manual for an oil filter change so I'm assuming that the fairing can be removed WITHOUT also taking the belly pan off http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/images/smilies/ikf/question.gif
Thanks in advance for the reply!

[MR..X]

Question for you guys that have done the right fairing removal. I'll be attacking said job towards the end of the week to do my first 600 mile service. The PowerPoint presentation with pics is awesome, but it includes the removal of the belly pan in addition to the main fairing. There is no reference to removing the belly pan in the Owner's manual for an oil filter change so I'm assuming that the fairing can be removed WITHOUT also taking the belly pan off http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/images/smilies/ikf/question.gif
Thanks in advance for the reply!

It only takes a second and is easier to get the tab in if you take off belly pan also.

[ccbusa09]

Ahhh...........Thanks, I think I'll do it your way. Looks like the pan is held on by only those two plastic pins on either side of the rectifier, piece of cake. I owned an 05 busa for two years and found the fairing removal for the "Gen I" not to be all that bad.

[MR..X]

Ahhh...........Thanks, I think I'll do it your way. Looks like the pan is held on by only those two plastic pins on either side of the rectifier, piece of cake. I owned an 05 busa for two years and found the fairing removal for the "Gen I" not to be all that bad.


First gen is easy to remove.
Second gen is harder.
2 things to watch or remember (1)- Rubber in intake tube be carefull not to push into air tube.(look at picture above B)
(2 )- dont pull plastic down when fasteners are removed SLIDE it to release.:cheers:

[ccbusa09]

First gen is easy to remove.
Second gen is harder.
2 things to watch or remember (1)- Rubber in intake tube be carefull not to push into air tube.(look at picture above B)
(2 )- dont pull plastic down when fasteners are removed SLIDE it to release.:cheers:
Thank you MrX, you've been very helpful. Even though I have yet to do my first oil and filter change, I was curious as to just how the belly pan attaches to the main fairing, so I removed the two fastener pins that hold the belly pan in place and try as I might, could not separate the pan from the fairing. So my question is, does the belly pan slide backwards to detach it, or do you push inward along the front edge in order to separate it from the fairing? I'm having pre-nightmares about doing all this for the first time. ARGH!

[MR..X]

Thank you MrX, you've been very helpful. Even though I have yet to do my first oil and filter change, I was curious as to just how the belly pan attaches to the main fairing, so I removed the two fastener pins that hold the belly pan in place and try as I might, could not separate the pan from the fairing. So my question is, does the belly pan slide backwards to detach it, or do you push inward along the front edge in order to separate it from the fairing? I'm having pre-nightmares about doing all this for the first time. ARGH!


Remove the screw by brake lever.:cheers:
Dont have pre nightmares YOU CAN DO IT .:thumbs up:

[ccbusa09]

Try as I might, I cannot separate the belly pan from the right fairing. On the other site, I've been told that they are one piece and CANNOT be separated from one another. I'm glad I didn't force it until something broke, I was assuming that they were in two pieces.
So, a really basic question so I can put this to rest once and for all:
Is the right fairing and belly pan ONE piece, or do they in fact separate?

[MR..X]

Try as I might, I cannot separate the belly pan from the right fairing. On the other site, I've been told that they are one piece and CANNOT be separated from one another. I'm glad I didn't force it until something broke, I was assuming that they were in two pieces.
So, a really basic question so I can put this to rest once and for all:
Is the right fairing and belly pan ONE piece, or do they in fact separate?

NO they seperate.
You were misinformed.

[MR..X]

Jim why are you trying to remove belly pan first ?
When you have removed all the fasteners and clips for the right side , i then start to pull away from rubber grommets on the right side frame then remove the belly pan, so it does not hit the floor and get scratched.:cheers:

[ccbusa09]

Well I finally completed my first oil/oil filter change. Like many have said, I should be able to cut that 5 hour job in half next time! For you that did it in half that time, kudos to you! I was freakin' out that I would break or scratch something.
What I did: lined the top of the right fairing along the seam where it meets the upper fairing with masking tape. Also lots of tape on the black surfaces to the right of the front of the tank where the upper right fairing section separates.
Removed the two clips on the undeside of the fairing first, then the one by the radiator (you need not remove the little center push pin that's staring at you just under and to the right of the headlight). Then I removed the two chrome hex screws from the side of the fairing and the top two screws and slotted nylon pin that are to the right of the tank (where all that tape, as stated above was). Then I removed the two nylon pins from either side of the rectifier (I eventually ended up removing the belly pan AND fairing as one unit). Then the fun part, lift up on the post that is inserted into the frame grommet and outwards on the remaining three. Lots of vasaline into those grommets, maybe it'll be easier next time. Then I proceeded as suggested by "ozz" and inserted my finger down at the bottom and "popped" loose the hooks as I moved my finger upwards along the front edge of the fairing. Then I gently wiggled the fairing loose by moving it in a downward and backward direction. The fairing is the whole hassle here, only took 30 minutes or less to actually change the oil and filter!
NOTE: Mr X.........had a nice thick blanket beneath the fairing, no scratching allowed in my garage! :oh yeah:

[MR..X]

Once you do it about 3 times or so Jim you will be pulling it apart no problem and Faster. GOOD WORK BUDDY !:cheers: